“What was I thinking,” I thought, “you've just thrown away a well paying, secure job for a life of unpredictable contracts and who knows what in tough economic times.” Not the best mantra to start out on the first leg of a journey in search of my dreams. I lay in bed trying to entice sleep’s arrival as doubts crept in. That was over a month ago now and as I look back at that moment the words of Kevin, my golf teammate in the Air North Midnight Scramble quickly come to mind. Saturday before last, June 20th, we met for the first time on the 18th tee at the Mountain View golf course. We awaited the arrival of the two other members of our foursome in this best-ball tournament. I knew none of these men and had just made it into the tourney as a last minute replacement for a regular who had to drop out. After introducing ourselves the first thing Kevin asked was, “what kind of player are you?” I replied, “Not that good.” “Geez man, you gotta have more confidence than that to play this game! You are replacing our ace putter, how’s your putting?” I replied, “Well my putting is a bit unpredictable, it can also be the weakest part of my game.” “Oh man you gotta quit thinking like that, you gotta be more positive!” Who knew I‘d be teamed up with the Yukon equivalent of motivational guru Tony Robbins, here on a golf course in Whitehorse! But when a 6’4” Cree man from Saskatchewan says get more confidence you begin to look for it in a hurry. Thanks to the pep talk and three very enjoyable playing partners I shook of the golf rust and early jitters and made a healthy contribution to our team. Even won a closest-to-the-hole contest on a 174 yards par 3 with 143 other golfers, many of whom are fine players judging from the team scores posted. So, dammit, I’m going to do this contract thing and I’m going to do it well and I'll enjoy the experience. Thanks for the inspiration Kevin.
(Editor’s note: this is the only "hindsight" flashback in the travel portion of the Blog, the rest is as experienced or shortly thereafter.)
Every traveller should be guided by a cake map, truly enjoy eating up those miles!
May 25 Day I
After carefully packing and adjusting and rechecking the contents of the car Caryn and I headed out for a last greasy breakfast at Kozy’s, our favorite neighborhood breakfast spot. This would also bring to a close the past few weeks of retirement celebrations affectionately known as DougFest. The endless stream of lunches and dinners and parties were taking their toll, I was de-svelting rapidly. No problem, I thought, exercise at the end of every day’s drive would fix that. As for now… “more buttered toast please.”
It is time. Farewells are exchanged, last minute details reviewed and then it begins. Key, ignition, gas…ooops, its a standard, right... CLUTCH, key, ignition…now the gas. And simple as that it is westward ho! Well as far west as Arnprior, my childhood hometown and a mandatory stop. Iconic images of my youth, Wes' Chip Wagon and the old post office, must photos to document the meeting of old and new intertwining on this trip of dreams.
Right, time for a break, I mean it has been a grueling 70 kilometres so far. I visit with brother Mike and, surprise, surprise, two brothers for the price for one, Bart has taken an extended lunch break to hang out on the chance I will show up.
Bart, just tell the boss you were on a smoke break, an hour long smoke break.
This is our last opportunity to be together this summer as it is unlikely either will come to the Yukon. We share some laughs and bottled water, now that is a first, but there still is a long drive ahead. More goodbyes and finally on to the road, the true beginning of the journey, honest.
Onto the Trans-Canada Highway and through very familiar territory, the Ottawa Valley, summers of my youth spent paving roads, the memories come flooding back; learning how to work, to live away from home and family, being recognized as an individual and not just part of a clan. Then there were the later years, vacations and road trips with my own family, golf outings and cottages. The history I have read about, the history I have lived all blend into this stew of life recalled... or maybe poutine is more Canadian, hmmm? Hey, the Soo, how did that happen so fast? The Ipod fueled drive, that little, memory inducing device, churning out music that inspires so many thoughts about people, places, events, decisions made and not made. The dreams seem to be steering the car, I’m just along for the ride. Yeeehaw!
May 26 Day 2
Up early, got in some exercise, breakfast consisted of a Subway sub, half for breakfast the second for lunch. Mmmm fast food turkey with olives, pickles and lettuce on whole wheat bread now that is healthy, just ask Jarrett. A few items required at Canadian Tire; more water and a flashlight. Fast food and Canadian Tire what could be more patriotic… ok maybe a Timmy’s coffee but there’s still time for a break, that would make the perfect Canuck trifecta. All set to go. I decide to follow the Trans-Canada instead of heading north. It is a longer route but I have never been through this part of Ontario, hey and I have the time.
I am astounded by the beauty of the land and water but there is a growing realization that this is one, butt numbingly BIG province! The music is cranked up as one memory evoking song after another pours out of that Ipod. Between the music and a dictatorial right foot my ability to intervene and stop to enjoy historic plaques or roadside attractions has failed completely. I have no influence over the foot on the gas pedal whatsoever. I have a hard time coaxing it to even press on the brake once in a while, let alone come to a full stop so I can stretch! To be fair the weather is drizzly and pictures of the Wawa Goose would not have lived up to anyone’s gander. Sorry old habit but I know you will appreciate it Elizabeth. As for natural beauty there is one peculiar area before Thunder Bay. As I reached the top of a hill I am in awe of a strange sight in the valley and hillsides surrounding me. Here is the mysterious valley of the Flaccid Birch. For some reason all of these the thousands of birch trees are bent over as if there had been an incredible ice storm or snowfall recently. I finally seize control of the car and actually turned around so as to get the best vantage point to photograph this weird, almost abstract view.
The movie shows better examples.
Back on the road and soon Thunder Bay looms ahead of me. Time to shop, replenish supplies and why not, check out the public library. It occurs to me that Kenora is next stop, actually last stop in Ontario. It is famous for several reasons; Huskie the Muskie, the much touted Willy Fountain and lastly being home to that famous archivist Leah Sander. First, let me just say a word about public libraries if I may. These buildings are such a neglected resource in this country, not only do they offer an oasis for learning but they provide internet access to anyone willing to sign up. This provides instant access to so many tools and allows communication anywhere in the world.
Where was I, ok despite that build up, instead of the internet I rely on a good old fashioned phone book and sure enough there is the number for the Sander household. Once I have found accommodations for the night in T-Bay I place a call and enjoy a pleasant conversation with Lois Sander. I explain my westward journey and that I had worked with Leah at LAC. I mention what a wonderful person her daughter is. Lois responded nonplussed, “oh yes we know that!” Somehow the phone conversation translates into a dinner invitation, and it takes little effort to convince me to drop by the next day.
May 27 Day 3
The trip from TB to Kenora is panoramic in the welcome sunshine. I arrive with time to spare so I took in the sights, downtown murals, the town hall, yes the public library, a lovely building and a busy place as well. Do a bit more internet messaging then set out to capture some of the famous sites on camera. Pick up a few offerings to add to dinner and head off to Casa Sander. Lois had mentioned “simple” fare, fish and potatoes. Ah but what fish, lake trout recently caught and dessert consisting of homemade blueberry grunt, hand picked berries, just what I am counting on. Add to the good meal two and a half hours of lively conversation covering life in this part of Ontario, the current mayor who actually proposed closing the library, boooo! I'm ready to lead a protest right there and then. Lee and Lois speak about the travels of their children to exotic and interesting places demonstrating what a remarkable country we have that furnishes opportunity for all regardless of location. Leah had e-mailed them earlier and passed along a copy of her fine poem delivered at my the retirement party so that sparks more discussion. Alas the time was too short and I have to move on if I am to reach my destination of the far side of Winnipeg by the end of the evening. So with warm goodbyes and a commemorative photo to capture the Sander hospitality I head towards Manitoba.
Lois and Lee.
A few wrong turns and then misdirections from a gas station attendant took me on a painfully slow drive through the heart of downtown Winnipeg. I am now way behind schedule. It is late, I’m tired and in need of a place to rest. I try two different motels but no vacancies to be had. I ask the night manager if he knows of any place that had a vacancy. He assures “oh sure I know a place,” and confirms with a quick call. Off I went, directions in hand and end up at a not too inviting cinder block building, the night clerk tucked behind a wire screen. She seems somewhat surprised when I ask for a room, as if to say, “For the entire night?” Hey it had a bed, the door locked and there are no bugs on the floor or mushrooms growing in the tub. All of my criteria are met or exceeded. Ah sleep!
Day 4 May 28
Today’s objective is Saskatoon, a bit of a stretch but I am prepared. I’ve got secret weapons, a cd version of Who Had Seen the Wind read by W.O. Mitchell himself. I plan to spend an extra day there, be a tourist, slow down and smell the flowers… or is that Round Up, the herbicide? The drive is going well except that being in the car for four long days starts to wear. I decide to take a break and saw a sign for a local golf course. I drive in and ask if they had a driving range. Yes indeed but could I wait fifteen minutes or so until they cleared the range of balls. No problem. I watch as one of the staff in a golf cart pulls a small “harvester” around the area picking up golf balls from earlier practitioners. I wait, with a smile, do some stretching and the proceed to hit my first golf shots of the year all over the place, pitying that poor retriever who would have his work cut out for himself, next trip. After that I head to the club house and order a hot dog and a beer, the complete golf experience! It is a very pleasant place, convivial staff and ladies. The ladies were starting to come in from their day on the course, bragging about their scores. I enjoy the repartee between the staff and these obviously familiar customers. I am treated the same way, small town friendliness. For the most part it has been a solitary adventure I am on and I don’t have many opportunities to interact with people other than buying food, gas or lodging, so moments as this are made even more enjoyable. I guess I have to admit that I am a sociable guy. Although this opportunity for lots of thinking and reflecting is welcome.
For example, I mentioned to a friend just before leaving Ottawa on this journey that this was a quest of sorts. A vision of Don Quixote came to mind as I said this. And what Canadian doesn’t have frequent visions of DQ I ask. Well a few thousand kilometers along in my journey and I am able to say that the good Don and I are pursuing different goals. While we share the ideals of chivalry, I am not going to tilt at oil rigs or roadside attractions. Although I was tempted by that giant muskie! Man, not only was it huge but it is Plexiglas so you can mount it on an exterior wall. My objectives are to visit or re-visit places which resonate for me in my own personal experience. Only drawback is trying to do that in western Canada with Ontario plates! I have to admit one bit of uber-coincidence. While travelling though Manitoba I decide to play one of the dozens of books on CD Paul Marsden offered to me out of his vast collection. I had selected only four since I have to haul them back with me at the end of my Yukon adventure. At random I chose one and began to play The Alchemist. It is novel about a quest of a young Spanish shepherd. He is directed in his pursuit of his own "personal legend" by the ancient King of Salem. [The Alchemist was originally written in Portuguese and has since been translated into 67 languages, winning the Guinness World Record for most translated book by a living author.^ a b Paulo Coelho Biography on PauloCoelho.com. ] http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/c/c4/TheAlchemist.jpg
Ah a blog with footnotes, I can see readers leaving in droves at this point. For those who stick it out, you may want to consider this one for your bookclubs. It is a great allegorical work that stikes home for me, no not the shepherd part, nor young for that matter, it is the quest of which I speak.
Take one IPOD loaded with old favorites and new, so many smiles and occasional tears, hey I’m getting old and sentimental, during the first days of the tour. In some ways it is like stepping into a time machine of memories that are unlocked by the music. Different eras, people, events yes even those polyester pants ok! Combine that with the avalanche of experiences and fresh memories just from the last few months. All of these things with the associated counterpoint to artists new and old and their music. Each of these imprints roll out of the car speakers as ‘random play’ dictates the order , triggering emotions and recollections in my mind, racing through years and events as I race through Northern Ontario and the West. Quite the sensory experience. Fortunately the landscape is up to the task, big enough to take on half a century plus of life and reminiscences.
I decide to take a break when I get to Yorkton, Saskatchewan, have lunch and look around at the local life. After a tour of downtown and the local grocer I eventually end up in, come on guess, the local public library. I am quickly installed at a computer and established internet connection to the universe. With the whole of the web at my disposal, and against my own avowed prohibition to shake the archival dust off, I try to log onto my old LAC account. Fortunately, I am unsuccessful. On the bright side I did have a number of important e-mails on my personal site concerning hockey playoff pools and enjoyable messages from friends and family. What a gift this interweb! I meet a fellow from Ottawa who is looking at the internet login in sheet and sees my name and address. He knows Whytes but not related. He lives here part of the year and the rest of the time in Florida or Vancouver. I am getting ideas about possible lifestyle options.
Back in the car, and on to Saskatoon. Another random thought, I miss my family. Sure this has been the culmination of several years planning and weeks of build up and the endless stream of retirement related events; celebrations parties, lunches, dinners and I am sure that put a strain on every one. Maybe in a few weeks of things getting back to normal and quiet once again returns to our Spadina home, it will be appreciated by the inhabitants. Me I’m lonely. Must be post DougFest withdrawal, although I don’t think I have even received as many hugs in all my life, so it wasn’t all bad. Ok none of it was bad it’s just that now I’m alone. Ah Saskatoon, hey it is big, 209,000 thousands of people; I’m not alone any more. Who knew!?!?! Find suitable accommodations where I can spend a comfortable couple of days, go out for walk and than a good dinner.
Day 5 May 29
Next morning I decide to work the kinks out of my golf game so I find a local driving range. It is an interesting experience especially as there is a local high school gym class occupying most of the tees. Lots of hi-jinks as the boys do their best impressions of Happy Gilmour trying to impress their buddies and the number of girls in the co-ed class. It is a warm sunny day making the setting even more convivial. The young ladies are less interested in hitting the ball and more interested in just being outdoors. Interesting to see so many of the kids hitting golf ball, big hair and even bigger headphones. Could be the start of a new trend on the tour?
Once done the bucket at the range I am able to get directions to the University of Saskatchewan campus. I want to see the Diefenbaker Centre as it was a big part of my early career although I had never been there before. I find the place and enter, sauntering around for a bit before I introduce myself to the staff and manage to wangle a tour of the archives with Rob Paul, Archival Coordinator. We have a great chat, he brought me up to date on what the Centre is involved in these days, I gave background information about the period when the decision to place the archives was still up in the air. Bob Gordon, Director of Manuscript Division at Public Archives of Canada, had made a big pitch for the collection pulling on Dief’s patriotism, for the good of all Canadians. To no avail, the deal was done with U of S. In the end he bartered a ‘Presidential- like' Library with a mausoleum thrown in to boot! This is one of the moments when past meets present and the collision of historical atoms produces some strange occurrences. I had spent several years during the early part of my archival career delving into this man’s papers. This was the first time I had ever seen the end product processed and together in one place. I truly relish the experience, it is special to be here, checking boxes of historic papers, seeing the row upon row of mobile shelving, the museum, the gravesite, the whole environment devoted to Dief. This is the moment when I decide to take a side trip to Prince Albert and visit his home which has also been turned into a museum. What the heck, I may never have the opportunity again. Thanks Rob for your time, I wish you well.
To be continued..............
Glad you've finally entered the blogosphere ... not only pictures, but a video too! ;)
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